July 14, 2010
When I booked my 11:15 a.m. flight to Helsinki, I had an idea that this would give me time for all sorts of fun activities in my last morning in Zurich, or at the very least that I would be able to sleep in. This was an incorrect assumption. I woke up fairly early still, packed my heavy bag (there is no good place for a description of how much I hate carrying this thing around, between the weight, the volume, and the way it seems to make my back melt, regardless of the outside temperature -- fortunately, I left a few pounds of luggage at Rob's place, and will them up again in September when I return). I mailed some postcards near the train station (during my week in Switzerland, I did not see a single mailbox in which to deposit them, I could not believe that they were mailed so late), and hopped on the airport train (did not stamp my Eurrail pass for it), waited in some surpringly slow lines at the airport to checkin with FinnAir, bought some chocolate, and then an espresso for myself, and got on the plane. Made some good progress on Inifinite Jest.
Upon my arrival in Helsinki (it didn't really strike me as much until then) I became very anxious about seeing my friend A, with whom I would be staying, and whom I had not seen in about 14 months. Fortunately, when she was there to greet me at the airport with a bottle of water, everything was well. The bus from Vantaa (near the airport) to Helsinki passed through a the Kallio neighborhood (A's warning that it was the not nice portion of Helsinki (it was actually not-not nice at all!) suggested to me that it may be a spot I want to check out before I leave).
Upon arriving in a spotlessly clean, white apartment, tons of light shining in from the windows, I was immediately calmed. Had some sparkling wine, caught up, and walked downtown for some remarkably good and well priced sushi at SushiBar. Did you know that in Finland, the súshi chefs are back in the kitchen, rather than way out in front? (it's a fact!) I suspect that it is because they could not even be mistaken as Japanese. To further raise my already raised spirits, a song from Fever Ray was playing while we were eating.
This was followed by a rooftop bar with a terrific view of the city (which did not get entirely dark, even at midnight). I also discovered that light beers are considered "girly" in Finland, including Corona! This was shocking to me. Drank one of many ciders that I'd have during my time in Finland.
*Indigo Girls -- Closer to Fine
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