July 28, 2010
Laugavegurinn -- Day 3
By far, the most difficult day of the trek, but possibly the most rewarding. While the other three days were not particularly tiring (4-5 hours of not super fast walking, not a crazy amount of climbing), this day was more like 7 hours, a lot faster than the first two, along many unmarked trails, and involved far more up and down than days 2 and 4, and possibly day 1 even.
When I woke up, it was not just warm by Icelandic standards, but hot by any standard. When I stumbled from my tent to the hut area for breakfast, I couldn´t believe that the sun was completely out, the sky was blue, and it was only 8 in the morning. People had spread their wet items on the deck outside the hut. We ate our sheep liver pate and salmon egg paste with butter sandwiches outside, along with smoked lamb sandwiches. Here, I talked to Klemenz a bit about music, U2, Rammstein, and Björk´s Gling Glo album (the first Icelandic I have met who likes it!). He was particularly surprised that I even know this album and was able to sing little snippets of it. Dori suggested that we take an alternate path along the lake, directly over the mountain, into a valley, where we would cross the river after the three rivers that fed it merged. This we did.
We walked quickly past the lake as it was swarming with flies. In fact, it was around this hut that I first started to see insects at all -- there were virtually none on the first two days. The climb over the first mountain was energizing, the valley below was beautiful. The river crossing was slightly scary as he had never crossed it before and was not 100% sure the path we were taking was the right one, but it ended up being not so deep where we crossed, maybe only up to the knee.
We passed sheep standing on a cliff, ups and downs along narrow creeks surrounded by moss, small grass, and little flowers, all different colors of green. Climbed up a fairly steep ridge to overlook a wide expanse of black sand, completely different than the green area we had been walking through. We stopped briefly to greet a German couple we had met the previous day, who had stopped to have lunch on a large boulder, crossed a rapid river by bridge, and hiked quickly across the sand fields to a spot to eat sheep liver pate, salmon egg paste, smoked lamb and butter sandwiches.
It was here he said "Hmmm...I really wanted to try this other route from here....but it´s too far.' And then paused. So I said "well, how far is it?" "Oh...maybe 4 more hours?" (we had already gone 3 and the regular path would have been more like 2). I said "Okay...I can do it, I´ll make it, but I´m going to be really, really tired at the end." So we set off, walking quickly across the sand, past a small mountain to another wide expanse of black sand littered with black rocks, no footprints to be seen anywhere (the path typically is well marked and well travelled...this area was not) towards another row of steep hills. After reaching those hills, we walked up a very steep one, such that by the top I had to use my hands to grap the rocks ahead of me, almost like climbing. At the top I realized i was semi exhausted already, and then it started to rain, but everything was looking good, so I kept going.
We walked through another area of ups and downs, rapidly changing vegetation, big rocks, small rocks, soft black sand, dirt, flowers, wild rivers, small clear streams, giant water falls, towards the melting glacier. We turned back there, stopped at an impressive waterfall where Dori chatted with the guide for a French group, and walked the way to the hut (another hour and a half), including a steep climb towards the very end.
I was very tired, and very sore, but was glad to have done it. Also, I felt less bad about being so tired when I learned that the big group had arrived only minutes before we did, and had hiked at least 5 km less.
I joined the big group for a walk to another very impressive gorge (don´t really have the words to describe it, just "big", "deep" and "colorful") while chatting mostly with the Canadian couple about musicals and children with fetal alcohol syndrome. Upon returning to the huts, I sat with them and read (Bret Easton Ellis´Less Than Zero now), then chatted some more, as well as with a Swiss couple, the Dutch guy from the first day, and the two younger Dutch guys, who had yet again finished this leg of the hike in record speed, definitely the most energetic travelers I met. Dinner was barbequed salmon, again super delicious, and salad.
I sat outside for hours more talking to this group, as well as a guy from Manchester, discussing a) differences between accents within England and the Netherlands and between US and Canada, b) how amazing the trek has been so far, c) the Icelandic town Skogar, and d) the charming lyrics to Dutch football songs.
By around midnight this group dissolved, and it was cold, and I started walking to the tent, but as I passed the warden´s tent, I noticed the lights on, all the guides sitting inside, and Soft Cell´s "Tainted Love" playing. They see me, and immediately waive me in and start cheering. I notice a huge bottle of the "moonshine" from the other night on the table, and they pour me a mug, and continue joking around, laughing, mostly among themselves, but periodically updating me on what was going on. My favorite of this was them singing along to Icelandic songs from the 1960s and 1970s, at the tops of their lungs, all knowing all the words. I don´t recall why, but I know I was laughing along with them for a while, and at some point singing along with one of the Icelandic guides (who amazingly knew all the words!) to Peter Gabriel/Kate Bush´s "Don´t Give Up" and Bob Dylan´s "Tangled Up in Blue" . I looked around at this scene, crowded in the tiny warden´s hut deep in the highlands, singing and laughing, that the decision to make this trek had been a very good one. And I thought about back in 1998 when I first started wanting to come. And how unlikely all of this would have seemed.
I got back to my hut at about 2:30 a.m., convinced that I would be hurting the next day. Miraculously, I was not hurting.
Björk -- Alfur Ut Ur Hol
Friday, July 30, 2010
I want to go on a mountain-top, with a radio and good batteries, and play a joyous tune and free the human race from suffering
July 27, 2010
Laugavegurinn -- Day 2
This was the best hiking day of the trip, and started with a dry, sunny morning, which was very encouraging. We ate breakfast again in the hut with the others, washed off the dishes, packed up our bags in the transport vehicle (for both the 16 person trip and my trip, tents, sleeping pads, extra food, anything not needed for the day, was carried by super jeep between the camp sites -- VERY convenient), and headed down the hill.
On this day, just about everything felt good.
1. We crossed wide expanses of the black gravel.
2. went up and down hills
3. I felt reasonably strong
4. We had short chit chats with other tourists along the way
5. We saw some extremely active geothermal spots (hot water bubbling out of the ground, hot steam, etc.)
6. ate lunch of lamb liver pate and salmon egg paste sandwiches on a hillside overlooking a green valley.
7. Crossed a cold river by taking off my boots, replacing them with sneakers and wading through.
8. Walked past a glacier.
9. Saw something which was not quite a waterfall, but maybe could be described as an extremely steep river, going about 100 meters down a mountain. Almost like a waterslide, but with a rocky bottom.
10. Arrived at the Alftavatn hut with lots of time to spare.
After setting up the tent, drinking some water and having a bite to eat, we walked along the Alftavatn lake, which was still and perfect, and clean, and reflected the sky, to a cave, and then back to the hut, stepping through the black sand along the water. Despite having had perfect weather all day, dry, not cold, during this walk it started raining, and by the time I got back to the hut, I looked once more like the shivering, wet, inexperienced American as I did on the first day.
After this, the transport driver, Klemenz, took us in the Super Jeep, through part of the lake, across an expanse, to a gorge to look down into. It was very pretty, and riding the jeep through the lake was pretty sweet as well.
I sat with the big group in the hut (they were sleeping there) and drank tea, and everybody shared information about their travels so far and plans. My meal was a huge serving of lamb (the lamb in Iceland is indeed the best I have ever tasted, so far I´ve had it on each trip), and salad. Klemenz had made an Icelandic lamb soup for the big group, which they were unable to finish, so I had a bowl of it as well. Around this time, two young Dutch guys showed up, soaked with rain, had walked the first two legs of the trip in just one day. The big group offered them soup, each eating something like 6 bowls. I chatted with them for a while, gave them some tips on places to go after the trek.
Stepped outside and chatted with D for a bit about politics, and was invited by Dori and Klemenz to go to a nearby hut to hang out with some of the other guides. Another two guides came along, racing along the gravel roads, through rivers, at around 10 at night (still light). A group of about 7 stood outside and drank sips of what they called "moonshine"(homemade fermented spirits, spiced with cumin), they spoke mostly in Icelandic, with occasional summaries in English of what they had been talking about. Surprisingly, this was more fun than it sounds. I even learned a few new words in Icelandic that I got to use later in the trip.
By around midnight, we drove back to the camp, Klemenz had to leave to rescue a small group that had given up on the trail, and I went for yet another very solid sleep.
Bjork -- Alarm Call
Laugavegurinn -- Day 2
This was the best hiking day of the trip, and started with a dry, sunny morning, which was very encouraging. We ate breakfast again in the hut with the others, washed off the dishes, packed up our bags in the transport vehicle (for both the 16 person trip and my trip, tents, sleeping pads, extra food, anything not needed for the day, was carried by super jeep between the camp sites -- VERY convenient), and headed down the hill.
On this day, just about everything felt good.
1. We crossed wide expanses of the black gravel.
2. went up and down hills
3. I felt reasonably strong
4. We had short chit chats with other tourists along the way
5. We saw some extremely active geothermal spots (hot water bubbling out of the ground, hot steam, etc.)
6. ate lunch of lamb liver pate and salmon egg paste sandwiches on a hillside overlooking a green valley.
7. Crossed a cold river by taking off my boots, replacing them with sneakers and wading through.
8. Walked past a glacier.
9. Saw something which was not quite a waterfall, but maybe could be described as an extremely steep river, going about 100 meters down a mountain. Almost like a waterslide, but with a rocky bottom.
10. Arrived at the Alftavatn hut with lots of time to spare.
After setting up the tent, drinking some water and having a bite to eat, we walked along the Alftavatn lake, which was still and perfect, and clean, and reflected the sky, to a cave, and then back to the hut, stepping through the black sand along the water. Despite having had perfect weather all day, dry, not cold, during this walk it started raining, and by the time I got back to the hut, I looked once more like the shivering, wet, inexperienced American as I did on the first day.
After this, the transport driver, Klemenz, took us in the Super Jeep, through part of the lake, across an expanse, to a gorge to look down into. It was very pretty, and riding the jeep through the lake was pretty sweet as well.
I sat with the big group in the hut (they were sleeping there) and drank tea, and everybody shared information about their travels so far and plans. My meal was a huge serving of lamb (the lamb in Iceland is indeed the best I have ever tasted, so far I´ve had it on each trip), and salad. Klemenz had made an Icelandic lamb soup for the big group, which they were unable to finish, so I had a bowl of it as well. Around this time, two young Dutch guys showed up, soaked with rain, had walked the first two legs of the trip in just one day. The big group offered them soup, each eating something like 6 bowls. I chatted with them for a while, gave them some tips on places to go after the trek.
Stepped outside and chatted with D for a bit about politics, and was invited by Dori and Klemenz to go to a nearby hut to hang out with some of the other guides. Another two guides came along, racing along the gravel roads, through rivers, at around 10 at night (still light). A group of about 7 stood outside and drank sips of what they called "moonshine"(homemade fermented spirits, spiced with cumin), they spoke mostly in Icelandic, with occasional summaries in English of what they had been talking about. Surprisingly, this was more fun than it sounds. I even learned a few new words in Icelandic that I got to use later in the trip.
By around midnight, we drove back to the camp, Klemenz had to leave to rescue a small group that had given up on the trail, and I went for yet another very solid sleep.
Bjork -- Alarm Call
Ive stumbled on the side of twelve misty mountains
July 26, 2010
Day One of the Laugavegurinn trek.
I woke up at about 6:30 a.m., extremely nervous and anxious about the trek. Did I have the right equipment? Was I in good enough shape? Would I get along with the guide? Would the weather be bad? Eva drove me to the BSI bus station to meet the guide (Dori), and I was immediately intimidated by the looks of the other people waiting for the same bus to Landmannalaugar (the start of the trek). They had better backpacks on, none of them were wearing shorts (I was), they looked serious, and comfortable with the idea of a long trek in the wilderness. Dori showed up at 8 a.m. (when I called the touring company to ask what he looked like, the girl on the phone said "like Shrek"), and we got on the bus with the other tour groups (and individual travelers) -- by the end of the trek I became fairly friendly with many of them, and began the several hour journey, first through lava fields, through Selfoss, onto the dirt mountain roads, past the volcana Hekla, through the highland mountains where the vegetation became extremely sparse (little bits of grass, mosss, etc.) and the only animals I could see were the occasional sheep (they are left to graze freely during this time of year before being rounded up for the slaughter). It was raining, and when I stepped out of the bus for a photo opportunity near Hekla, very cold and windy.
We arrived at Landmannalaugar at around 2, rain still coming down, and had lunch under an overhang -- lamb liver pate and salmon egg paste with butter on bread and instant coffee. Probably the most famous feature of Landmannalaugar are the natural hot spring baths, so despite the freezing, rainy, windy weather, I had to try. Changed into a bathsuit (unpleasant) and got into the hot water, and sat there for probably 20 minutes, watching the steam rise, and checking out the landscape (extremely pleasant).
Apparently, my aggressive attempts to get on a group tour with this company had become known among the employees. When I met D, the guide of the 16 person group, she looked at me and laughed and made a comment about me being the "stubborn tourist", but this was actually encouraging.
We started the walk very slow (I later learned this was to help build confidence), and Dori explained to me how to use the poles. As I do with many things, I have trouble explaining why the landscape in this part of the world is so appealing -- mostly black gravel, with little to no plant life, steep hills carved by glacial water, unexpected valleys and gorges. But as I started the hike, I knew I would likely be very happy with my decision to go. Especially when we walked past some spots with steam coming out of the ground (smells like sulfer), which I think are just so cool. We passed D´s group, as well as many others, mostly gaining in elevation. The rain stopped and we had a few hours of pleasant, cool, weather (in the 50s?) and I opened up my rain jacket and relaxed a bit.
We crossed a few small streams by jumping over the rocks, climbed up and over small hills, and hiked across fields of frozen snow, now gaining more elevation. Towards the end of the 4-5 hour hike, we walked into a cloud of fog, which obscured much of the landscape, wandering across black gravel, pelted with rain.
The location of the hut had some of the worst weather of the trip, and we set up the tents (or Dori taught me how to set up a tent, while mostly doing it himself), with rain coming hard horizontally. Finally, we got to go inside, and eat dinner with the 16 person group, which was pleasant, and a good introduction to some of the dynamics of the other travelers on the same path. That night, I met a Dutch guy, probably in his 50s and his wife, who gave me some advice on travel to Netherlands, a Canadian couple from Alberta, all of whom I would stay in touch with over the trip. After eating cod and salad, I sat in the common area trying to dry off my soaked clothes, while the guides joked amongst themselves in Icelandic.
I dreaded leaving the hut to go to the tent where I was sleeping, but amazingly, all was dry inside, it was not so cold, and I slept more soundly than I have in a long time. ´
Bob Dylan -- A Hard Rain´s Gonna Fall
Day One of the Laugavegurinn trek.
I woke up at about 6:30 a.m., extremely nervous and anxious about the trek. Did I have the right equipment? Was I in good enough shape? Would I get along with the guide? Would the weather be bad? Eva drove me to the BSI bus station to meet the guide (Dori), and I was immediately intimidated by the looks of the other people waiting for the same bus to Landmannalaugar (the start of the trek). They had better backpacks on, none of them were wearing shorts (I was), they looked serious, and comfortable with the idea of a long trek in the wilderness. Dori showed up at 8 a.m. (when I called the touring company to ask what he looked like, the girl on the phone said "like Shrek"), and we got on the bus with the other tour groups (and individual travelers) -- by the end of the trek I became fairly friendly with many of them, and began the several hour journey, first through lava fields, through Selfoss, onto the dirt mountain roads, past the volcana Hekla, through the highland mountains where the vegetation became extremely sparse (little bits of grass, mosss, etc.) and the only animals I could see were the occasional sheep (they are left to graze freely during this time of year before being rounded up for the slaughter). It was raining, and when I stepped out of the bus for a photo opportunity near Hekla, very cold and windy.
We arrived at Landmannalaugar at around 2, rain still coming down, and had lunch under an overhang -- lamb liver pate and salmon egg paste with butter on bread and instant coffee. Probably the most famous feature of Landmannalaugar are the natural hot spring baths, so despite the freezing, rainy, windy weather, I had to try. Changed into a bathsuit (unpleasant) and got into the hot water, and sat there for probably 20 minutes, watching the steam rise, and checking out the landscape (extremely pleasant).
Apparently, my aggressive attempts to get on a group tour with this company had become known among the employees. When I met D, the guide of the 16 person group, she looked at me and laughed and made a comment about me being the "stubborn tourist", but this was actually encouraging.
We started the walk very slow (I later learned this was to help build confidence), and Dori explained to me how to use the poles. As I do with many things, I have trouble explaining why the landscape in this part of the world is so appealing -- mostly black gravel, with little to no plant life, steep hills carved by glacial water, unexpected valleys and gorges. But as I started the hike, I knew I would likely be very happy with my decision to go. Especially when we walked past some spots with steam coming out of the ground (smells like sulfer), which I think are just so cool. We passed D´s group, as well as many others, mostly gaining in elevation. The rain stopped and we had a few hours of pleasant, cool, weather (in the 50s?) and I opened up my rain jacket and relaxed a bit.
We crossed a few small streams by jumping over the rocks, climbed up and over small hills, and hiked across fields of frozen snow, now gaining more elevation. Towards the end of the 4-5 hour hike, we walked into a cloud of fog, which obscured much of the landscape, wandering across black gravel, pelted with rain.
The location of the hut had some of the worst weather of the trip, and we set up the tents (or Dori taught me how to set up a tent, while mostly doing it himself), with rain coming hard horizontally. Finally, we got to go inside, and eat dinner with the 16 person group, which was pleasant, and a good introduction to some of the dynamics of the other travelers on the same path. That night, I met a Dutch guy, probably in his 50s and his wife, who gave me some advice on travel to Netherlands, a Canadian couple from Alberta, all of whom I would stay in touch with over the trip. After eating cod and salad, I sat in the common area trying to dry off my soaked clothes, while the guides joked amongst themselves in Icelandic.
I dreaded leaving the hut to go to the tent where I was sleeping, but amazingly, all was dry inside, it was not so cold, and I slept more soundly than I have in a long time. ´
Bob Dylan -- A Hard Rain´s Gonna Fall
þu ert svo god, kusa kyr, Bukolla min
July 25, 2010
Once again, I am going to attempt to update about 6 days of action packed vacation in a very short time, so the following entries are going to be much briefer than I would like.
I don´t think I woke up on Sunday until well afternoon, probably around 2:00 p.m., and I admit that I felt quite bad, especially in the head and in the stomach. I wasn´t up for much, but Eva, Silla and Emilia and I went to get burgers at Hamborgarafabrikkan (the Hamburger Factory) near the harbor, and the site of the historic summit between Reagan and Gorbachev in 1986 (the restaurant relies heavily upon this theme). I ordered the Morthens burger, named after Iceland´s most famous singer, Bubbi Morthens (cheese, bacon, sauce?), with a square bun, and fries. It was delicious. For dessert I had skyr (icelandic yoghurt) cheesecake, and tasted the chocolate cake, ice cream and milk shake the the others tried. Next to our table was a statue of a giant blue cow and on the wall was a sign listing the number of people living in Iceland. After this meal, I felt much better.
Came back to the house and went to sleep for a few hours.
With only hours to spare, spent the next few hours with Eva´s family figuring out what gear I would need for the 4 day Laugavegurinn trek, including rain pants, rain jacket, gloves, hat, sleeping bag, etc. I had almost no experience camping, especially in the Icelandic highlands, so getting this right was very important.
I spent the hours of 10:30 pm through 1 a.m. updating this blog. I was tired, but very, very nervous, and had trouble falling asleep.
Björk -- Bukolla
Once again, I am going to attempt to update about 6 days of action packed vacation in a very short time, so the following entries are going to be much briefer than I would like.
I don´t think I woke up on Sunday until well afternoon, probably around 2:00 p.m., and I admit that I felt quite bad, especially in the head and in the stomach. I wasn´t up for much, but Eva, Silla and Emilia and I went to get burgers at Hamborgarafabrikkan (the Hamburger Factory) near the harbor, and the site of the historic summit between Reagan and Gorbachev in 1986 (the restaurant relies heavily upon this theme). I ordered the Morthens burger, named after Iceland´s most famous singer, Bubbi Morthens (cheese, bacon, sauce?), with a square bun, and fries. It was delicious. For dessert I had skyr (icelandic yoghurt) cheesecake, and tasted the chocolate cake, ice cream and milk shake the the others tried. Next to our table was a statue of a giant blue cow and on the wall was a sign listing the number of people living in Iceland. After this meal, I felt much better.
Came back to the house and went to sleep for a few hours.
With only hours to spare, spent the next few hours with Eva´s family figuring out what gear I would need for the 4 day Laugavegurinn trek, including rain pants, rain jacket, gloves, hat, sleeping bag, etc. I had almost no experience camping, especially in the Icelandic highlands, so getting this right was very important.
I spent the hours of 10:30 pm through 1 a.m. updating this blog. I was tired, but very, very nervous, and had trouble falling asleep.
Björk -- Bukolla
Sunday, July 25, 2010
Early Dawning, Sunday Morning
July 24, 2010
My last breakfast in Finland consisted of the delicious herring and smoked salmon we bought yesterday at the old Helsinki market hall down by the harbor, dark brown bread, coffee, cucumbers and bell pepper, much like the other breakfasts. I´ll miss these. I made sure I packed up my bags, chargers, phone, clothes, books, and A walked me to the bus to the Helsinki-Vantaa airport, rode the bus, sad goodbye, and was off to the duty free.
My flight to Reykjavik was uneventful, sat next to two old ladies on their way back from Helsinki to Minnesota (showed them how to watch a video about Icelandic horses on the display), read a little of Infinite Jest (I expect I will be doing this for a while), slept a little, watched about half of Die Hard (scary movie!). Picked up some wine at the duty free in Reykjavik, made it through customs, and was greeted by Eva at the Keflavik airport for my third visit to Iceland.
It was still a little shocking to be here again -- it is funny to me how much I miss the place every time. I was excited, big party planned for the night, seeing old friends, and of course the familiar taste of the Icelandic hot dog ("hoddog"). Stopped at the Bonus supermarket at the Kringlan mall, picked up some food for dinner, including diet coke (an eastern European guy working at the store attempting to dissuade me from purchasing the diet coke told me that the Germans used Aspartame to kill the Jews -- was he just trying to be helpful or did I look so obviously Jewish??????) Stopped at a hot dog stand for a pylsa (delicious).
Arrived at Eva´s house, said hi to her mom and dad (always good to see them), took a nap (listening to Glenn Gould´s "The Latecomers"). After I woke up, took a shower. The showers in Iceland are universally amazing, and this one especially good. Super hot, high pressure, with a mineral smell that I found slightly disturbing the first time in 2005, but have grown to find comforting.
Around 8:30 p.m., Eva´s friends started to arrive, Audur and her boyfriend Gummi, Sjöfn, Silla, Sandra and others I had not met before. Spent some good time on the balcony laughing and telling old stories about the various visits between the US and Reykjavik, my travels so far and in the future, eating pretzels, drinking red wine. Sky still bright and not really at all old yet.
At around 2 a.m., various groups of us left for downtown. I think the first bar we went to was called 11 on Laugavegur, danced for maybe an hour to Blur, the Pixies, some Icelandic songs I didn´t know, with some of Eva´s friends I didn´t know, Audur and G. The beers I was attempting to drink ended up much on my shirt from being bumped into. Good bar though, and I wish I could remember more of the music being played.
Left to the Celtic Cross, where I think I went once in 2005, only stayed for a bit, but long enough for some sort of green shot.
At this point it was about 4 a.m., the sun completely out, and one of them asks if I feel like keeping on "jamming", which I think is an Icelandic way of saying "do you want to stay out tonight?" I said yes, and I think the next place we were to was Apotek, where one of the girls i was with´s boyfriend was djing. Met some guys from the U.S.A. there for a bachelor party. I think this part of the "night" ended around 6:30, I said goodbye to my Icelandic friends, but instead of going directly home, spent about half an hour emailing from my phone on the street, and people watching.
Despite the hour, and the brightness, the streets downtown were full of people, most not looking so very tired. I picked up a sandwich from a shop and sat down on a chair to eat it, spoke to an Icelandic couple waiting for a taxi about their having 5 kids between them despite being 33 and 35 years old and not fully employed. Whoa. They were impressed with my plan to hike Laugavegurinn on Monday though, which was encouraging.
Shared a cab back to Eva´s with some strangers, and went to sleep at around 7 a.m. Thank Golly she woke up to let me back in. I knew I would feel really bad soon and I did.
**Velvet Underground -- Sunday Morning
You Got Finns to the Left, Finns to Right and Your´re the Only Bait in Town
July 23, 2010
Last full day in Finland. Spent much of the morning updating this blog, and finally had a telephone conversation with Inga Fanney from the Icelandic tour company confirming that yes, I would take the private tour of Laugavegurinn that i´ve been trying in some way or another to book for the past 2 months, and which has involved extensive emailing with her. She was much friendlier on the phone than I had imagined. I later learned that she and my friend Audur in Reykjavik have been communicating extensively about my trip. While this trip will be expensive, I am apparently getting it for a very good price, and am very relieved that it looks like everything is going to work out.
Rode the bikes to a cafe by the harbor for lunch, had a salad with some salmon and other sea food on it, saw some bungee jumpers, ran into two of A´s friends with their baby, a bird tried to eat my lunch.
Sat for a while on the steps of the Helsinki cathedral and then dropped off the bikes.
Dinner at Mange Sud, another exceptional Helsinki restaurant. I´ve come to the conclusion that the food in this town is fantastic, or at least everywhere I´ve been. Paired drinks with the plates, scallops, gazpacho (which I normally hate, but in this case loved), steak, macaroon and ice cream, sparkling wine, red, white, sherry, dessert wine.
Drinks afterwards at Bar Olo with A´s friends. Bizarre performance by a hip hop group consisting of two Finnish guys (one fat, looks like Turtle from Entourage style, one with glasses and a scarf, manning the turntables) and a guy from Camaroon, one of the only non-white guy´s I have seen in Helsinki, and of those probably the only not from Somalia. Lot of rapping about how they were the "Dream Team". A´s friends were embarrassed by this, especially at a 5 star restaurant.
We left for the Havana style bar from Tuesday night, which was nice, but then it started to rain and we all went home.
**Jimmy Buffett -- Fins
It´s Almost Night and I Just Might Head to the Strand Down By the Sea
July 22, 2010
Another late start, but a few hours earlier than the previous day. Walked to a bike rental place, rented a green fixed gear Jopo bike for me (first time riding a fixed gear since I was a kid, so getting used to the foot brake required much concentration). Supposedly these things are very popular in Finland, and I can see why. While it took me a while to get a hang of it, they are relatively lightweight, sturdy (I crashed mine into a boulder with no injury to either self or bike), and fast enough for any kind of city transportation.
We walked next door to A´s friend Anna´s jewelry shop to pick up a replacement for a lost earring and recounted the many activities of the previous week. Realized how incredibly busy we had been.
Rode bikes to Tori, a Finnish restaurant, for Finnish meatballs for lunch (actually significantly different from Swedish meatballs despite my jokes to the contrary!), with lingonberry sauce and mashed potatoes.
Rode bikes through Kallio, the "working class" neighborhood I had wanted to see from the first days. While not quite as pretty as the Toölo neighborhood of Helsinki, it probably didn´t look any slummier than most parts of any other city I´ve been. Saw some sketchy characters hanging out about the supermarket where we stopped for sparkling water. Drove past a soccer game played by Somalis, arabic sounding music blasting from a low quality loud speaker.
Rode the bikes past the harbor, back to Toölo, stopped at the Regatta cafe for coffee and blueberry cake (this cafe gives you 5 cents BACK every time you get a refill -- interesting idea).
Back to the apartment to relax for a bit (for some reason was pretty tired), and went out again for dinner, this time fairly late (can´t remember the name of the place) and then for drinks again at the rooftop bar. I was surprised at how much darker midnight was than how it looked my first night in Helsinki from the same location.
Frank Black -- So. Bay
I Wanna Be a Little Seahorse
July 21, 2010
Got a very late start on Wednesday, somewhat exhausted still from the road trip.
The first activity of the day of the Linnanmaki Amusement Park in Helsinki, that features all sorts of very traditional amusement park rides, the likes of which I have not enjoyed for many years including:
1. A Ferris Wheel. Great view of the city.
2. The Kieppo. I don´t know how to describe it beyond that it flipped me over in every direction for what felt like several minutes, and I think I almost vomited.
3. A wooden roller coaster built in 1951. Fun, but I screamed.
4. A Funhouse built in 1961. Scarier than I thought it would be. Got somewhat lost in the hall of mirrors.
5. Another roller coaster that was very short, but really, really intense. Held on to my glasses very tightly.
6. The mirrors that make you look fat and skinny.
7. A carousel built in 1896.
Totally fun experience, but my stomach felt a bit turned by the end. Good thing the next event on the itinerary was dinner! Saw two really scary looking monster guys getting off the tram as we were getting on, and I asked where they worked in Finland. Turned out that they were homeless and probably from Kallio.
Dinner at the Seahorse Restaurant. Probably the most exceptional meal of Finland, maybe of the trip. Nice, but not pretentious atmosphere, super good food, friendly service, and not too expensive even:
1. Kulalaakeri (this is not how it is spelled): a Finnish drink I liked but cannot describe.
2. Herring Plate: herring, cucumber, beets, chopped pickles, chopped onions, egg, mustardish sauce, lettuce, potatoes, dill. Super good.
3. bottle of rose wine from Italy. Refreshing.
4. Liver in a brown sauce and mashed potatoes.
5. Salmiakki (Finnish, licorice flavor) shot for after dinner drink.
6. Coffee.
Walked to the Hotel Kamp (built in 1887) for a glass of wine.
**Devendra Banhart -- Seahorse
Saturday, July 24, 2010
The River May Keep You Drowning, But South is Only a Home
July 20, 2010
On this day we spent half a day in Savonlinna, home of, according to Lonely Planet, one of the best castles in northern Europe.
We checked out of the steamboat, and walked to the Savonlinna market, about 50 meters away. For breakfast, bought about 8 of these 3-4 inch smoked fishes (with heads and faces), some coffee, and some Finnish meat filled pastries, the names of which I cannot remember. Delicious, but super filling.
Walked along the river to the church, check. And then to the other end of Savonlinna for the castle (stopped along the way for ice cream and a playground for children). Castle was impressive, and surprisingly large. This is where the operas are played when it is the opera festival in July, and while I do not watch much opera I think I would have liked very much to see it in this place. For a little while we looked at a seagull. It is always good in a city in Europe to see both the church and the castle and to eat some small smoked fish whole.
By the afternoon, had another ice cream (there was a funny man there who got lots of ice cream in his mustache), and then went back to the car for the long drive back to Helsinki.
Dropped off the car at the Europcar spot, and went to Nepalese for dinner. I think that Nepalese in Finland isn't very different from Indian in the U.S., but maybe a little bit less spicy, but still very good. Stopped for drinks in another spot near the city center (cider again).
**Fiery Furnaces -- South is Only a Home
On this day we spent half a day in Savonlinna, home of, according to Lonely Planet, one of the best castles in northern Europe.
We checked out of the steamboat, and walked to the Savonlinna market, about 50 meters away. For breakfast, bought about 8 of these 3-4 inch smoked fishes (with heads and faces), some coffee, and some Finnish meat filled pastries, the names of which I cannot remember. Delicious, but super filling.
Walked along the river to the church, check. And then to the other end of Savonlinna for the castle (stopped along the way for ice cream and a playground for children). Castle was impressive, and surprisingly large. This is where the operas are played when it is the opera festival in July, and while I do not watch much opera I think I would have liked very much to see it in this place. For a little while we looked at a seagull. It is always good in a city in Europe to see both the church and the castle and to eat some small smoked fish whole.
By the afternoon, had another ice cream (there was a funny man there who got lots of ice cream in his mustache), and then went back to the car for the long drive back to Helsinki.
Dropped off the car at the Europcar spot, and went to Nepalese for dinner. I think that Nepalese in Finland isn't very different from Indian in the U.S., but maybe a little bit less spicy, but still very good. Stopped for drinks in another spot near the city center (cider again).
**Fiery Furnaces -- South is Only a Home
Friday, July 23, 2010
We're Coming to the Edge, Running on the Water
July 19, 2010
This was one of the most beautiful days so far on my trip, spent mostly outdoors on a river in Eastern Finland.
We had a quick breakfast at the lodge, which was, again, surprisingly delicious, were introduced to Valteri, our guide on the rafting trip. At first, we were a little bit nervous about him. Almost completely silent, sitting by himself, never addressing me, 6 inch braided beard. He drove us in silence to pick up the others on the trip, 4 Finnish and a German. Because of the presence of the German, who also spoke English, I felt less about the tour being conducted in both Finnish and English.
Valteri drove us in a van, along with the raft to the river, and soon he began to warm up, telling guide jokes in English and Finnish, that I am sure he tells every group ("this is a self emptying boat, mostly for water, but sometimes for customers!"), he gave us instructions on paddling, and told us what to do if we were thrown.
His warnings ended up not being necessary, as the rapids were not too scary (level 2?), the group was pleasant, and the water not so cold. I didn't bring my camera as I did not foresee that we would be able to keep it dry on the raft, but I wish I had, as the scenery was spectacular. For one of the rapids, three of the guests rode it outside of the raft (which was actually a superior experience), and on another, most of the group did the same.
By around 2 pm, we stopped for a while for lunch. We grilled sausages over an open fire (Valteri introduced them as the "national vegetable"), ate fresh salmon from the river, coffee cooked over the fire, Finnish pastries and coffee cake.
I hadn't been river rafting in 14 years (Costa Rica school trip). While this ride was much easier than I had expected, it was also extremely pleasant, and highly recommended.
After we returned to the cabin, we packed up our stuff, and got in the car to Savonlinna, home of a month long opera festival in July, performances held in a giant castle by the river. We were expecting trouble finding a place to stay there, but the Lonely Planet helped us out by recommending the cabin of a steam ship staying in the Savonlinna port overnight. While Lonely Planet warned that the cabins would be "cramped", I was not expecting it to be as small as it was. I estimate no more than 1.5 meters in each direction?
We had dinner across the street from the steam boat (I had a plate of small fried fishes and mashed potatoes, and some wine), and then walked along the harbor towards the castle, where rich looking, older folks, mostly Finnish, were exiting the castle after a performance of Tosca, and wondered whether if I had come to Savonlinna alone, not knowing of the opera festival, whether I would have, upon discovering this crowd, attempting to find where they were coming from or where they were going. We joined many of them at a fancy outdoor bar by the river. A lot of fun.
**Carly Simon -- Let the River Run
This was one of the most beautiful days so far on my trip, spent mostly outdoors on a river in Eastern Finland.
We had a quick breakfast at the lodge, which was, again, surprisingly delicious, were introduced to Valteri, our guide on the rafting trip. At first, we were a little bit nervous about him. Almost completely silent, sitting by himself, never addressing me, 6 inch braided beard. He drove us in silence to pick up the others on the trip, 4 Finnish and a German. Because of the presence of the German, who also spoke English, I felt less about the tour being conducted in both Finnish and English.
Valteri drove us in a van, along with the raft to the river, and soon he began to warm up, telling guide jokes in English and Finnish, that I am sure he tells every group ("this is a self emptying boat, mostly for water, but sometimes for customers!"), he gave us instructions on paddling, and told us what to do if we were thrown.
His warnings ended up not being necessary, as the rapids were not too scary (level 2?), the group was pleasant, and the water not so cold. I didn't bring my camera as I did not foresee that we would be able to keep it dry on the raft, but I wish I had, as the scenery was spectacular. For one of the rapids, three of the guests rode it outside of the raft (which was actually a superior experience), and on another, most of the group did the same.
By around 2 pm, we stopped for a while for lunch. We grilled sausages over an open fire (Valteri introduced them as the "national vegetable"), ate fresh salmon from the river, coffee cooked over the fire, Finnish pastries and coffee cake.
I hadn't been river rafting in 14 years (Costa Rica school trip). While this ride was much easier than I had expected, it was also extremely pleasant, and highly recommended.
After we returned to the cabin, we packed up our stuff, and got in the car to Savonlinna, home of a month long opera festival in July, performances held in a giant castle by the river. We were expecting trouble finding a place to stay there, but the Lonely Planet helped us out by recommending the cabin of a steam ship staying in the Savonlinna port overnight. While Lonely Planet warned that the cabins would be "cramped", I was not expecting it to be as small as it was. I estimate no more than 1.5 meters in each direction?
We had dinner across the street from the steam boat (I had a plate of small fried fishes and mashed potatoes, and some wine), and then walked along the harbor towards the castle, where rich looking, older folks, mostly Finnish, were exiting the castle after a performance of Tosca, and wondered whether if I had come to Savonlinna alone, not knowing of the opera festival, whether I would have, upon discovering this crowd, attempting to find where they were coming from or where they were going. We joined many of them at a fancy outdoor bar by the river. A lot of fun.
**Carly Simon -- Let the River Run
I Am the Passenger, and I Ride and I Ride
July 18, 2010
While we had the foresight to book a rental car for our trip to near the Koli National Park for river rafting, in a moment of carelessness, having just returned from the bar, we made the mistake of booking it for Monday, rather than Sunday. This resulted in some minor inconvenience at the Vantaa airport (where the rental car companies are located), cancelling the original reservation and making a new one with a different company (the first company had no cars available for that day). Fortunately, and to A's great surprise this all worked out with relative ease.
We grabbed a cup of coffee at the airport (to wake up, to celebrate the successful rescheduling, and to commemorate meeting at the Barcelona airport long ago), hopped in the car, and began what was to be an 8 hour journey through Finland to Ruunaa, the base for the river rafting trip. And the road trip?
1. Lots of listening to music, mostly off of Finnish radio stations (the reach of which extend amazingly far beyond Helsinki). Favorites included the Voice (basically a KIIS FM but which includes Finnish and British hits (Amy Macdonald and Robbie Williams), Groove (soul oldies, etc.) and Radio Suomi Pop.
2. We stopped at an ABC store for a quick bite. This is the fast food center that is everywhere along the road in Finland, but I would say is probably my least favorite thing about the country. Subpar hamburger, and other even less appetizing options. But at least it had a market where we bought some insect repellant.
3. Rivers, lakes, forest, pine trees, and the purple flowers. The Finnish landscape.
4. A stop at another supermarket to buy cider. Outside there was a guy selling knives.
Finally, we reached Lieksa, the town closest to where we were staying. Lieksa was the worst place I have seen since I have been in Finland. Although it was at least 9 p.m. by the time we arrive, the sky was still light, but the streets were desolate, nowhere to eat except for two pubs, both of which we entered against our better judgment. The first bar had possibly one patron, Edwin Collins' "Girl Like You" playing, while the unfriendly bartender offered us little help reaching our final destination. The second bar was slightly better, although the help was no more friendly, and I was made somewhat uncomfortable by the drunk guy walking around with no shirt on.
The drive to Ruunna was approximately another 30 minutes, through mostly undivided roads, only some of it paved. I did not know it at the time, but we were only a few kilometers away from the Russian border. At this point, the sky was getting dark, and I even started to get a little bit nervous.
Luckily, and thanks to A's navigation, we made it to our destination. We knew the cabin we would be staying would be small, but we were a little surprised at HOW small. But remarkably clean, and comfortable, with a tiny kitchen, a tiny fridge, and a window. We drank the ciders we bought earlier that day, listened to some Cliff Edwards and went to sleep.
**Iggy Pop -- The Passenger
While we had the foresight to book a rental car for our trip to near the Koli National Park for river rafting, in a moment of carelessness, having just returned from the bar, we made the mistake of booking it for Monday, rather than Sunday. This resulted in some minor inconvenience at the Vantaa airport (where the rental car companies are located), cancelling the original reservation and making a new one with a different company (the first company had no cars available for that day). Fortunately, and to A's great surprise this all worked out with relative ease.
We grabbed a cup of coffee at the airport (to wake up, to celebrate the successful rescheduling, and to commemorate meeting at the Barcelona airport long ago), hopped in the car, and began what was to be an 8 hour journey through Finland to Ruunaa, the base for the river rafting trip. And the road trip?
1. Lots of listening to music, mostly off of Finnish radio stations (the reach of which extend amazingly far beyond Helsinki). Favorites included the Voice (basically a KIIS FM but which includes Finnish and British hits (Amy Macdonald and Robbie Williams), Groove (soul oldies, etc.) and Radio Suomi Pop.
2. We stopped at an ABC store for a quick bite. This is the fast food center that is everywhere along the road in Finland, but I would say is probably my least favorite thing about the country. Subpar hamburger, and other even less appetizing options. But at least it had a market where we bought some insect repellant.
3. Rivers, lakes, forest, pine trees, and the purple flowers. The Finnish landscape.
4. A stop at another supermarket to buy cider. Outside there was a guy selling knives.
Finally, we reached Lieksa, the town closest to where we were staying. Lieksa was the worst place I have seen since I have been in Finland. Although it was at least 9 p.m. by the time we arrive, the sky was still light, but the streets were desolate, nowhere to eat except for two pubs, both of which we entered against our better judgment. The first bar had possibly one patron, Edwin Collins' "Girl Like You" playing, while the unfriendly bartender offered us little help reaching our final destination. The second bar was slightly better, although the help was no more friendly, and I was made somewhat uncomfortable by the drunk guy walking around with no shirt on.
The drive to Ruunna was approximately another 30 minutes, through mostly undivided roads, only some of it paved. I did not know it at the time, but we were only a few kilometers away from the Russian border. At this point, the sky was getting dark, and I even started to get a little bit nervous.
Luckily, and thanks to A's navigation, we made it to our destination. We knew the cabin we would be staying would be small, but we were a little surprised at HOW small. But remarkably clean, and comfortable, with a tiny kitchen, a tiny fridge, and a window. We drank the ciders we bought earlier that day, listened to some Cliff Edwards and went to sleep.
**Iggy Pop -- The Passenger
Wednesday, July 21, 2010
A Servant Girl in Turku Sang Me a Song or Two and I Wrote Them Down
July 17, 2010
Saturday morning we rushed to get ready, and ran through the train station to catch the 11:00 a.m. train to Turku, the cultural capital of Finland, and the oldest city in the country. A had been somewhat reluctant to go there a few days before, but I successfully convinced her to go. About six months ago I had an amazing dream about going there. Turku was a ton of fun, but nothing like the dream.
The train ride introduced me to Finnish landscape: trees, trees, more trees, purple flowers, rivers and lakes.
Turku itself was a very pleasant day trip:
1. A stop at Stockman's department store for an external speaker (we lost the first one on Suomenlinna).
2. Lunch. Delicious hamburger, but for some reason I felt strangely lightheaded for a while (despite good blood sugar numbers) and without appetite. Spent some time afterward sitting by the river clearing my head.
3. Walked to the old stone church and attended a wedding ceremony. I couldn't understand a word, but still got a little bit sentimental.
4. Licorice flavored ice cream by the church.
5. Along the river that runs through Turku are boat bars, where people sit and drink and listen to music while enjoying the summer weather. A wanted a Corona, but we couldn't find one. All the same, we had a very pleasant several hours sitting by the water. The boat we chose had a particularly good DJ, who played a song off the new Groove Armada album that I was really enjoying.
6. Pizza and a glass of wine at Ristaurante Dennis, a pizzeria famously once attended by David and Victoria Beckham. Had a delicious pizza with jalapenos and garlic on it. Guy behind us had a face sunburned beyond all recognition and it required all self control to refrain from laughing at him.
7. Train ride back to Helsinki, listened to girly music off my iPod.
8. Daqueria and Corona at a Cuban bar in Helsinki, DJ playing great music, Cuban, Calypso, etc.
**Fiery Furnaces -- Up in the North
Saturday morning we rushed to get ready, and ran through the train station to catch the 11:00 a.m. train to Turku, the cultural capital of Finland, and the oldest city in the country. A had been somewhat reluctant to go there a few days before, but I successfully convinced her to go. About six months ago I had an amazing dream about going there. Turku was a ton of fun, but nothing like the dream.
The train ride introduced me to Finnish landscape: trees, trees, more trees, purple flowers, rivers and lakes.
Turku itself was a very pleasant day trip:
1. A stop at Stockman's department store for an external speaker (we lost the first one on Suomenlinna).
2. Lunch. Delicious hamburger, but for some reason I felt strangely lightheaded for a while (despite good blood sugar numbers) and without appetite. Spent some time afterward sitting by the river clearing my head.
3. Walked to the old stone church and attended a wedding ceremony. I couldn't understand a word, but still got a little bit sentimental.
4. Licorice flavored ice cream by the church.
5. Along the river that runs through Turku are boat bars, where people sit and drink and listen to music while enjoying the summer weather. A wanted a Corona, but we couldn't find one. All the same, we had a very pleasant several hours sitting by the water. The boat we chose had a particularly good DJ, who played a song off the new Groove Armada album that I was really enjoying.
6. Pizza and a glass of wine at Ristaurante Dennis, a pizzeria famously once attended by David and Victoria Beckham. Had a delicious pizza with jalapenos and garlic on it. Guy behind us had a face sunburned beyond all recognition and it required all self control to refrain from laughing at him.
7. Train ride back to Helsinki, listened to girly music off my iPod.
8. Daqueria and Corona at a Cuban bar in Helsinki, DJ playing great music, Cuban, Calypso, etc.
**Fiery Furnaces -- Up in the North
Finlandia
July 16, 2010
On this day, we took a day trip to Porvoo, a medieval town, with some Swedish history behind (that I have not now bothered to put here). Again, a walk down to the harbor area, and a quick coffee and boarded a ferry to the town (Porvoo is about 50 km by road, but the boat ride takes one along the forested coastline, is very pretty and relaxing). In line for tickets we met a long, grey haired Australian named Rob that had semi moved to Helsinki for a Finnish woman he met in a bar in Sydney 10 years ago after going through a messy divorce. The guy seemed to be saying that he was studying law, but it was unclear to me whether he was a lawyer. His Finnish wife and two small Finnish children were with him on the boat, and he was by far the most friendly of the 4.
Upon arrival, we overcame the urge for ice cream, and had lunch at Johans, a summer restaurant, run by some of A's friends. I had the sausage, with vegetables, and she had the salmon, both with some white wine. I was again amazed at how hot is southern Finland in the summertime. The sausage was remarkably good, slightly spicy.
We got black licorice candy, macaroons (NOT THE SAME AS MACAROONS IN US!!!) to eat, and coffee to drink, sat by the river and watched the little fish, and visited the church (I'm digging the Protestant churches in Northern Europe, btw). There was a practice for confirmation taking place. There were many tourists in town, but virtually all Finnish.
We took the bus back to Helsinki, half sleeping the whole way.
For Friday night, we went out again to sushi at Rakuya, again meeting or exceeding my tough L.A. sushi standards. Delicious broccoli salad (with sesame oil), California Roll and Helsinki Roll (for contrast), lucky salmon sushi, some wine. Nice atmosphere, good music (Bat for Lashes at one point!), good service. Highly recommended!
Then drinks at A21, ranked at one time as the best drinks bar in Europe. Without exaggeration, it had some of the best mixed drinks I've ever had, with also some terrific service. The bartenders put on a good show of a shaking and mixing and carefully measuring the ingredients, the waiters offering suggestions beyond "well, what are you in the mood for?" and comfortable seating.
**Indigo Girls -- Finlandia
On this day, we took a day trip to Porvoo, a medieval town, with some Swedish history behind (that I have not now bothered to put here). Again, a walk down to the harbor area, and a quick coffee and boarded a ferry to the town (Porvoo is about 50 km by road, but the boat ride takes one along the forested coastline, is very pretty and relaxing). In line for tickets we met a long, grey haired Australian named Rob that had semi moved to Helsinki for a Finnish woman he met in a bar in Sydney 10 years ago after going through a messy divorce. The guy seemed to be saying that he was studying law, but it was unclear to me whether he was a lawyer. His Finnish wife and two small Finnish children were with him on the boat, and he was by far the most friendly of the 4.
Upon arrival, we overcame the urge for ice cream, and had lunch at Johans, a summer restaurant, run by some of A's friends. I had the sausage, with vegetables, and she had the salmon, both with some white wine. I was again amazed at how hot is southern Finland in the summertime. The sausage was remarkably good, slightly spicy.
We got black licorice candy, macaroons (NOT THE SAME AS MACAROONS IN US!!!) to eat, and coffee to drink, sat by the river and watched the little fish, and visited the church (I'm digging the Protestant churches in Northern Europe, btw). There was a practice for confirmation taking place. There were many tourists in town, but virtually all Finnish.
We took the bus back to Helsinki, half sleeping the whole way.
For Friday night, we went out again to sushi at Rakuya, again meeting or exceeding my tough L.A. sushi standards. Delicious broccoli salad (with sesame oil), California Roll and Helsinki Roll (for contrast), lucky salmon sushi, some wine. Nice atmosphere, good music (Bat for Lashes at one point!), good service. Highly recommended!
Then drinks at A21, ranked at one time as the best drinks bar in Europe. Without exaggeration, it had some of the best mixed drinks I've ever had, with also some terrific service. The bartenders put on a good show of a shaking and mixing and carefully measuring the ingredients, the waiters offering suggestions beyond "well, what are you in the mood for?" and comfortable seating.
**Indigo Girls -- Finlandia
Even in the Rain
July 15, 2010
My first day in Helsinki was remarkably exciting.
After being served an amazing breakfast of some of my favorite foods (coffee, strawberries, bread, ham, cheese, vegetables), we left for the day.
First, despite A's general distaste for visiting churches, we stopped at the Helsinki Rock Church, which, without exaggeration, was one of the best pieces of architecture i've seen. Given my lack of descriptive skills, especially when it comes to construction, i'm at somewhat of a loss, but it was a dome built into a rocky hill, with light shining through the top, smelling of mountain and rock, but cool and just bright enough (I believe with only natural light).
Second, we walked to the harbor area, bought fresh strawberries and cherries, and then to a marketplace where we bought fish sandwiches.
Third, we took a ferry boat to Suomenlinna, the former island fortress of Helsinki, sitting outside on the deck. We found a pleasant place to sit, ate the sandwiches, enjoyed the sun, listened to music on a small speaker, drank sparkling wine. By around 4 or so, or at least after we had been theré a while, A's brother and a big group of his friends joined us, with more sparkling wine. While the day had so far been hot, almost uncomfortably so, the wind started, and then a drizzle, and then a rain. I was given a pink rain jacket to wear, but this would not be enough. The group of 10 of us or so ran up the rocks, up a hill and into a clearing where caves were carved into the rock, and although we, our bags, my phone, my camera, and everything was soaked through and through, we spent the next hour or two laughing, listening to music and drinking more of the sparkling wine in these caves. Finally the rain cleared, the sky turned blue again, we stopped at a bar on the island for one last drink and took the ferry back to Helsinki.
Fourth, A and I grabbed a quick dinner (smoked salmon on bread) during which I received a phone call from a partner from work that I had never met, asking about an amazon.com order supposedly made by me. This phone call was very jarring, and reminded me how much stress I had left behind and how much awaits me once this holiday is over.
Fifth, we walked to a karaoke bar where the others were already singing. Highlights included:
1) the guy dressed in white pants, white shirt with a deep v, and a cross, who after turning up on his own, sang a rousing version of a Finnish song.
2) singing ABBA's SOS to a bar of Finnish strangers.
3) Some Finnish songs that I actually really enjoyed, including Pelle Miljoona's new wave classic "Tahdon Rakastella Sinua".
Sixth, we walked to a place called the Granny Tunnel (I'm not sure if this was the official name), but based on the number of women over the age of 60 very much on the prowl, it seemed aptly named. We migrated to a downstairs (not terribly populated) dance club room and I danced in a circle with my new Finnish friends to a bizarre remix of Miami Sound Machine's "The Conga".
The walk back home was much longer than promised (200 meters? I don't think so) and there was no stop for doner kebab on the way.
**Fiery Furnaces -- Even in the Rain
My first day in Helsinki was remarkably exciting.
After being served an amazing breakfast of some of my favorite foods (coffee, strawberries, bread, ham, cheese, vegetables), we left for the day.
First, despite A's general distaste for visiting churches, we stopped at the Helsinki Rock Church, which, without exaggeration, was one of the best pieces of architecture i've seen. Given my lack of descriptive skills, especially when it comes to construction, i'm at somewhat of a loss, but it was a dome built into a rocky hill, with light shining through the top, smelling of mountain and rock, but cool and just bright enough (I believe with only natural light).
Second, we walked to the harbor area, bought fresh strawberries and cherries, and then to a marketplace where we bought fish sandwiches.
Third, we took a ferry boat to Suomenlinna, the former island fortress of Helsinki, sitting outside on the deck. We found a pleasant place to sit, ate the sandwiches, enjoyed the sun, listened to music on a small speaker, drank sparkling wine. By around 4 or so, or at least after we had been theré a while, A's brother and a big group of his friends joined us, with more sparkling wine. While the day had so far been hot, almost uncomfortably so, the wind started, and then a drizzle, and then a rain. I was given a pink rain jacket to wear, but this would not be enough. The group of 10 of us or so ran up the rocks, up a hill and into a clearing where caves were carved into the rock, and although we, our bags, my phone, my camera, and everything was soaked through and through, we spent the next hour or two laughing, listening to music and drinking more of the sparkling wine in these caves. Finally the rain cleared, the sky turned blue again, we stopped at a bar on the island for one last drink and took the ferry back to Helsinki.
Fourth, A and I grabbed a quick dinner (smoked salmon on bread) during which I received a phone call from a partner from work that I had never met, asking about an amazon.com order supposedly made by me. This phone call was very jarring, and reminded me how much stress I had left behind and how much awaits me once this holiday is over.
Fifth, we walked to a karaoke bar where the others were already singing. Highlights included:
1) the guy dressed in white pants, white shirt with a deep v, and a cross, who after turning up on his own, sang a rousing version of a Finnish song.
2) singing ABBA's SOS to a bar of Finnish strangers.
3) Some Finnish songs that I actually really enjoyed, including Pelle Miljoona's new wave classic "Tahdon Rakastella Sinua".
Sixth, we walked to a place called the Granny Tunnel (I'm not sure if this was the official name), but based on the number of women over the age of 60 very much on the prowl, it seemed aptly named. We migrated to a downstairs (not terribly populated) dance club room and I danced in a circle with my new Finnish friends to a bizarre remix of Miami Sound Machine's "The Conga".
The walk back home was much longer than promised (200 meters? I don't think so) and there was no stop for doner kebab on the way.
**Fiery Furnaces -- Even in the Rain
Closer to Fin(e)[land]
July 14, 2010
When I booked my 11:15 a.m. flight to Helsinki, I had an idea that this would give me time for all sorts of fun activities in my last morning in Zurich, or at the very least that I would be able to sleep in. This was an incorrect assumption. I woke up fairly early still, packed my heavy bag (there is no good place for a description of how much I hate carrying this thing around, between the weight, the volume, and the way it seems to make my back melt, regardless of the outside temperature -- fortunately, I left a few pounds of luggage at Rob's place, and will them up again in September when I return). I mailed some postcards near the train station (during my week in Switzerland, I did not see a single mailbox in which to deposit them, I could not believe that they were mailed so late), and hopped on the airport train (did not stamp my Eurrail pass for it), waited in some surpringly slow lines at the airport to checkin with FinnAir, bought some chocolate, and then an espresso for myself, and got on the plane. Made some good progress on Inifinite Jest.
Upon my arrival in Helsinki (it didn't really strike me as much until then) I became very anxious about seeing my friend A, with whom I would be staying, and whom I had not seen in about 14 months. Fortunately, when she was there to greet me at the airport with a bottle of water, everything was well. The bus from Vantaa (near the airport) to Helsinki passed through a the Kallio neighborhood (A's warning that it was the not nice portion of Helsinki (it was actually not-not nice at all!) suggested to me that it may be a spot I want to check out before I leave).
Upon arriving in a spotlessly clean, white apartment, tons of light shining in from the windows, I was immediately calmed. Had some sparkling wine, caught up, and walked downtown for some remarkably good and well priced sushi at SushiBar. Did you know that in Finland, the súshi chefs are back in the kitchen, rather than way out in front? (it's a fact!) I suspect that it is because they could not even be mistaken as Japanese. To further raise my already raised spirits, a song from Fever Ray was playing while we were eating.
This was followed by a rooftop bar with a terrific view of the city (which did not get entirely dark, even at midnight). I also discovered that light beers are considered "girly" in Finland, including Corona! This was shocking to me. Drank one of many ciders that I'd have during my time in Finland.
*Indigo Girls -- Closer to Fine
When I booked my 11:15 a.m. flight to Helsinki, I had an idea that this would give me time for all sorts of fun activities in my last morning in Zurich, or at the very least that I would be able to sleep in. This was an incorrect assumption. I woke up fairly early still, packed my heavy bag (there is no good place for a description of how much I hate carrying this thing around, between the weight, the volume, and the way it seems to make my back melt, regardless of the outside temperature -- fortunately, I left a few pounds of luggage at Rob's place, and will them up again in September when I return). I mailed some postcards near the train station (during my week in Switzerland, I did not see a single mailbox in which to deposit them, I could not believe that they were mailed so late), and hopped on the airport train (did not stamp my Eurrail pass for it), waited in some surpringly slow lines at the airport to checkin with FinnAir, bought some chocolate, and then an espresso for myself, and got on the plane. Made some good progress on Inifinite Jest.
Upon my arrival in Helsinki (it didn't really strike me as much until then) I became very anxious about seeing my friend A, with whom I would be staying, and whom I had not seen in about 14 months. Fortunately, when she was there to greet me at the airport with a bottle of water, everything was well. The bus from Vantaa (near the airport) to Helsinki passed through a the Kallio neighborhood (A's warning that it was the not nice portion of Helsinki (it was actually not-not nice at all!) suggested to me that it may be a spot I want to check out before I leave).
Upon arriving in a spotlessly clean, white apartment, tons of light shining in from the windows, I was immediately calmed. Had some sparkling wine, caught up, and walked downtown for some remarkably good and well priced sushi at SushiBar. Did you know that in Finland, the súshi chefs are back in the kitchen, rather than way out in front? (it's a fact!) I suspect that it is because they could not even be mistaken as Japanese. To further raise my already raised spirits, a song from Fever Ray was playing while we were eating.
This was followed by a rooftop bar with a terrific view of the city (which did not get entirely dark, even at midnight). I also discovered that light beers are considered "girly" in Finland, including Corona! This was shocking to me. Drank one of many ciders that I'd have during my time in Finland.
*Indigo Girls -- Closer to Fine
I Got the Picnic, You Got the Ants
July 13, 2010
The theme that may turn up in these entries is that I have several days (or a single day) of semi intense activity, followed by a day or two of exhaustion, where I do little but rest and/or sleep. Last Tuesday (and today) are in the latter category. I'm over a week behind on this, so my last memories of Switzerland and my earliest memories of Finland may not be as precise or detailed as I had wished. I know this: I had many more experiences, observations, and noteworthwory incidents than those recorded here, the reason for the omission typically being lack of memory. Tragic, I know.
I also know this: I woke up on Tuesday very, very tired. I met up with N for coffee and a croissant at Sprungli's (the servers were surprisingly confused by the request for the coffee to be take away) on Bahnhofstrasse (or maybe it was just near), and walked through a park by the Limmat River. Rushed back to Rob's apartment, charged my blackberry briefly, and took the tram to the train station tourist office, picked up a map, seriously considered what I wanted to do that day (Bern, maybe) and opted for relaxing in the Botanical Gardens.
Part of my motivation for the Botanical Gardens was that my brother's apartment was temporarily unavailable and I felt myself in desperate need for a nap. I found a pleasant grassy spot on a hill, pulled up a chair, and started reading Infinite Jest (is it possible that I will actually make it all the way through/enjoy it). For the next 3 hours, I alternated between reading and dozing off, while occasionally being eaten by ants.
When I had had enough of this, I walked back up to the Zurich city center (about half an hour), ate a shnitzel at the Sternen Grill, and took the tram back to Rob's apartment. Left at around 5 or so (?) to meet up with N again, this time at Starbucks near centrum, and then walked to Rimini, a bar sitting over the river (stopped for strawberry ice cream along the way), and had drinks with two Belgian guys until late. I learned more than I had ever planned to know about the smelting industry, and also the interesting fact that in Belgium and Switzerland, everybody is required by law to carry a passport at all times (it's a fact!). Delicious cider and pizza. Also met a guy from Finland who told me about how much fun I would be having in the next week. Had a late night Mcflurry and cheeseburger and called it a night.
*R.E.M. -- Burning Hell
The theme that may turn up in these entries is that I have several days (or a single day) of semi intense activity, followed by a day or two of exhaustion, where I do little but rest and/or sleep. Last Tuesday (and today) are in the latter category. I'm over a week behind on this, so my last memories of Switzerland and my earliest memories of Finland may not be as precise or detailed as I had wished. I know this: I had many more experiences, observations, and noteworthwory incidents than those recorded here, the reason for the omission typically being lack of memory. Tragic, I know.
I also know this: I woke up on Tuesday very, very tired. I met up with N for coffee and a croissant at Sprungli's (the servers were surprisingly confused by the request for the coffee to be take away) on Bahnhofstrasse (or maybe it was just near), and walked through a park by the Limmat River. Rushed back to Rob's apartment, charged my blackberry briefly, and took the tram to the train station tourist office, picked up a map, seriously considered what I wanted to do that day (Bern, maybe) and opted for relaxing in the Botanical Gardens.
Part of my motivation for the Botanical Gardens was that my brother's apartment was temporarily unavailable and I felt myself in desperate need for a nap. I found a pleasant grassy spot on a hill, pulled up a chair, and started reading Infinite Jest (is it possible that I will actually make it all the way through/enjoy it). For the next 3 hours, I alternated between reading and dozing off, while occasionally being eaten by ants.
When I had had enough of this, I walked back up to the Zurich city center (about half an hour), ate a shnitzel at the Sternen Grill, and took the tram back to Rob's apartment. Left at around 5 or so (?) to meet up with N again, this time at Starbucks near centrum, and then walked to Rimini, a bar sitting over the river (stopped for strawberry ice cream along the way), and had drinks with two Belgian guys until late. I learned more than I had ever planned to know about the smelting industry, and also the interesting fact that in Belgium and Switzerland, everybody is required by law to carry a passport at all times (it's a fact!). Delicious cider and pizza. Also met a guy from Finland who told me about how much fun I would be having in the next week. Had a late night Mcflurry and cheeseburger and called it a night.
*R.E.M. -- Burning Hell
Tuesday, July 13, 2010
Just me and my Swiss Army knife
July 12, 2010
Displaying a complete disregard for the scarcity of travel days on my Eurrail pass (I get 15 total during a period of 2 months, and counting this day have used 3), I took the train to Basel, the medium-sized, northern Swiss city where my brother works.
The lady at the tourist office was extremely helpful, handed me a map, as well as suggestions as to what to see in town. I walked from the train station to the Rhine River (much wider than the river running through Zurich), walked along that river to the old town, spent about 20 minutes in the Munster church (browsed the exhibit inside regarding the late middle ages/reformation era university system in Basel), sat on a bench along the river and read White Tiger, walked to the market square area, and finally realized that I was too tired to do much more walking, and followed the Lonely Planet guide's suggestion that I head to one of the many cafes along Steinenvordstadt, and sat for a few hours, read, and ate a delicious sauceless pizza. I got there a bit before noon, before the lunch time rush, and stayed until 2, after that rush ended. This was extremely pleasant, although a few times I felt that I would fall asleep.
I took the tram to the Beyeler museum, but due to my inability to properly navigate the Basel transportation system, this took me twice as long as it should have (the trams would suddenly change lines or directions -- I learned at the passengers wishing to stay on that line must cross the street and board another tram or bus). The museum was specially exhibits of works by Jean Michel Basquiat and Felix Gonzales-Torres. I've always thought Basquiat was a overrated, and even in this exhibit I didn't so much enjoy looking at each painting individually. HOWEVER, there was something special, and pleasantly colorful at looking at room after room full of Basquiats against the white walls. The Gonzales-Torres works I think I enjoyed more -- rectangular arrangements of wrapped candies on floor, piles of candies in the corners of room, a beaded curtain, a structure made up of light bulbs wired each to the other, several foot high stacks of paper with provocative words of images imprinted thereon. After enjoying the exhibit, I sat outside in the garden, even though there was a light drizzle.
I took the tram back the central Basel, where I was meeting Rob in front of his building, but I was early and took a walk. During this walk, a rain storm started, not quite of the same magnitude of that on Saturday, but still pretty intense. I stood under a covered area extending from a modern hotel, along with some teenagers who had been similarly caught in the storm.
Rob and I went out to dinner at a Swiss restaurant, ate some delicious steak, followed up with another bar in the neighborhood, and took a train back to Zurich.
Look Who Bought the Mythen
July 11, 2010
After yet another night of not enough sleep, I got up something ridiculously early like 8:30 a.m., put on my new hiking shoes and hopped in a car with my brother and his Spanish work friend S to Mythen, a 1899 meter high mountain about an hour from Zurich. We met up there with M, my brother's other work friend, with whom we had sat by the river the day before.
I was much more optimistic about my ability to hike up this mountain
than I should have been. While the other three were talking, joking around, hiking up the fairly steep trail with no apparent difficulty, I was gasping for air most of the way up. Which is a shame, because the view down was pretty spectacular, the path was well marked, and the company was good. I was quite pleased to reach the summit and to enjoy a bowl of pasta and a cold drink served by the hut. We spent about an hour at the top, eating, drinking coffee, chit chatting about, among other things, the Reformation, and the organizational structure of their company. Here's a picture of me taken by M at the summit where I'm looking a lot less tired after an hour of sitting.
The walk down was thankfully (but not inevitably) much easier, and I was better able to take in the scenery, the clean air, etc. At the base, we said goodbye to M, and Rob, S and I drove to the Zurich Lake where we sat on the grass for a few hours and relaxed. S drove us back to Rob's place, the two of them (not exhausted from the day) went out again to a bar to watch the World Cup final match, which I watched from Rob's apartment, happy just not to be on my feet anymore. I think I ate some cheese and a granola bar for dinner.
Also, I got slightly sunburned on my forearms and neck, but not so much that I'm uncomfortable.
* R.E.M. -- Exhuming McCarthy
Sunday, July 11, 2010
At the River
July 10, 2010
Rob and I got on bikes, road down to the city center (almost unbearably hot), and parked ourselves along a grassy area near the river where the Zurichers congregate on pretty days to swim in the river, lay out in the sun, drink extremely overpriced drinks, and listen to horrible techno music. The 5 or so hours we spent sitting there, people watching, and occasionally getting in the river, were some of the most relaxing of the trip. The water was much cleaner than I had previously understood it to be, not too cold, and full of Swiss people.
Later, Rob's friend M came by, and later his friends A and N. Against my better judgment, M, A and N convinced me to walk a good while upstream to one of the bridges over the river, jump off that bridge into the river, and then swim/float downstream. I knew that I was not that strong of a swimmer, but after this experience I'm not even sure if I count as a swimmer at all. The water felt great, the sky looked nice, the people I was with were very nice, but I was using all my energy and focus to furiously paddle the water enough to keep my head from sinking (I never learned to float). By the time I flopped onto the pier at the end of this track, I was out of breath, and glad to be alive, while the others seemed hardly affected.
Soon thereafter, the sky got cloudy and the wind started to blow. We all knew this was trouble, and packed up our stuff, but not before the lightening started, and the wind began blowing leaves off the trees into our faces. Rob, M and I walked our bikes to a middle eastern restaurant, and soon after we began to eat, we experienced a rainstorm unlike almost any I have ever seen, on par with the storms in LA in 2005. The rain stopped, we finished eating, we took the tram back to Rob's place and went out again for a few more hours in town, which was probably not wise for me as we had a hike up a mountain planned for the next day, and I had already proven myself entirely out of shape.
Funiculì, Funiculà!
July 9, 2010
I decided to spend this day in Lucerne, since both my brother and the Lonely Planet described it as one of Switzerland's highlights, and only an hour away from Zurich by train. I amazed myself by getting up early enough to finish a blog post and still make the 8:35 a.m. train. I participated in the following touristy activities:
1. Tour of the mountain Pilatus ("said" (whatever that means) to be haunted by Pontius Pilate). Apparently, I toured Pilatus in the manner of the geriatric and nearly infant, since there was no one on my trip even close to my age unless accompanied by a screaming toddler. I took a short trainride to Alpnachstad, and from there the world's steepest cogway train to near the mountain peak, ate a quick sausage and beer lunch (up to 5 sausages now), and took a 40 minute round trip hike to the actual peak, somewhere around 3100 meters. I was excited to have made it, but still felt ashamed to reach the peak out of breath followed by some very grey haired folks and children who did not appear to be at all winded. I blame it on the altitude. On the way back down to the station at the top of the mountain, I saw some old guys in traditional Swiss dress blowing Alphorns. The other tourists were very amused.
Here is a picture of some cows grazing on the mountain on the way up:
Here is a picture of the view from the top:
Here's a picture of some of those traditionally dressed Swiss guys, some older people, and a kid:
I took the gondola down, and then due to the bad directions of the lady working at the station at the bottom of the gondola, I walked 45 minutes into the Lucerne city center.
2. Again, I walked and down the river, and across the several historical bridges.
3. I ate a banana split and wrote post cards.
4. I visited the Lucerne Lion, which was surrounded by Asian tourists. The Lucerne Lion is a giant lion carved into a rock face.
5. I got tired and took the train back to Zurich.
Rob and I went to dinner at this great place near Longstrasse, had steak tartar, spicy pasta and veal (I think it was). This was followed by a BBQ on the roof of his friends' A and N's apartment, and then two Swiss clubs. The first reminded me of the sort of thing I might see in LA (super crowded, kinda douchy crowd, DJ doing that thing where they play 10 seconds of a hit song, switch to another, etc.) but the second was a bit different -- fairly interesting electronic music in a basement looking place. Neither the sort of place I'd normally visit, but super fun for vacation. Haven't been out until 5 in quite a while!
We Could Walk But We'd Never Get There
July 8, 2010
I decided to spend my first day in Zurich walking the streets of the city center, getting the touristy activities out of the way, including the following (some not touristy):
1. Walked to Le Pain Cotidien on my brother's street for breakfast. I did not know that they were such a popular chain in Europe.
2. The Kunsthaus art museum. First class art, and excellent audiotour! Highlights were the rooms filled with works by Swiss painter Ferdinand Hodler and Swiss (I didn't realize he was Swiss!) sculptor/painter Alberto Giocometti.
3. The Coop supermarket. Not much selection, but I'd never seen a doner kebab station inside the supermarket before.
4. A walk up and down the Limmat River. Despite its green color, it is supposedly clean.
5. Lunch at Zeughauskeller, a sausage restaurant recommended by Lonely Planet. Ate two delicious spicy sausages, potato salad (served hot?) and a few beers, listened to the women next to me speak in German about the World Cup and wrote post cards. Here's what the food looked like (that's a Westlaw pen, by the way):
6. Fraumunster church, featuring stained glass windows by Marc Chagall.
7. St. Peter's Church (featuring Europe's largest clockface). After climbing the 187 steps to the top of the tower, I met two guys from Oregon (one of which had lived for a while in West Hills, near where I grew up) and chit chatted. They told me that the day before they had gone swimming in the river, an idea which at the time I found repulsive. Little did I know that I would be doing just that in less than 24 hours.
8. Sternen Grill, supposedly the best sausage place in Zurich, for yet another sausage (I believe my 4th in about 36 hours?) It lived up to the hype.
I met up with my brother at 7:00 p.m. at his apartment, and despite both being tired, went to Lilly's for Thai food, a small market to supply his new apartment, went back, watched some news on Al-Jazeera English and went to sleep.
Let This Be Consolation Steven, That All the While You Were in England, I Treated Her With Care and Respect
July 7, 2010
I have never been an early riser. Waking up for work at 7:30 a.m. was always painful to me, and while on vacation I generally consider any time I wake up before 9:00 a.m. to be pretty heroic. Thus, waking up at 5:00 a.m. on Wednesday morning was very, very unpleasant, especially considering my very late bedtime.
Given my tiredness, I remember little about the train ride. I listened to a lot of music on my iPod, I emailed with friends from work, I finished the Magicians, and I passed in and out of sleep throughout the day. Over the course of the 12+ hour journey to Zurich, I paid little attention to what was going out the window and interacted with none of my fellow travelers. In fact, my only memory of my fellow travelers were these two white guys across the aisle from me conversing in English, despite both had heavy accents revealing that neither spoke English as a native language. In my drowsy state, I was reminded of conversations between foreign villains in the movies, when the decision has been made to convey their foreignness through accented english rather than subtitles.
I had a 3.5 hour layover in Brussels, during which little was accomplished for the following reasons:
1. My facebook request for things to do there received many responses, mostly jokes, and some suggesting that I drink beer.
2. The train station locker only accepted euro coins as payment, and I had not yet changed my money, so had to spend time doing so.
3. I decided to eat at a restaurant recommended by the Lonely Planet guide which was much, much, further away from the train station than I had realized, I never found it and ended up eating somewhere else.
4. Where the staff did their best to ignore me despite my best efforts to get their attention.
I did manage to drink a delicious cherry beer and sugar crepe (the cheapest thing on the menu). I did not have time to go to the museum.
My brother Robert (who lives in Zurich) picked me up at the Zurich train station, took me to a Swiss restaurant for a sausage, hash browns and a beer, we went home, and I went to sleep.
Thursday, July 8, 2010
England is Mine and it Owes Me a Living
July 6, 2010
Because of my late night watching movies, once again my day began late. In fact, I'm not sure I even left the flat until after 3 or 4 in the afternoon. Joe made me "breakfast" at around 11:00 or so -- eggs with salmon and toast -- and we talked about his getting meningitis in India and I spent the next few hours awake writing the first few entries of this blog.
The last time I was in England (2005), I tried to find the dorm at which I stayed during my study abroad, as well as the other locations I regularly frequented, but for some reason was unable to do so. On this day I set out to lay my eyes on those locations once again and wascompletely successful. I found:
1. Ifor Evans Dorm (tried to get in but it was locked).
2. The Sainsbury's where I used to buy candy and port wine.
3. The curry place on Camden Rd. at which I used to eat.
4. The two bars near the Camden Rd. tube station.
5. The Parma Cafe, where I used to get breakfast and tea.
I met Natalia back at the flat at around 7, and we took a trip to South Kensington to drop off a suitcase at a dinner party attended by her mother (who also happened to be in town), as well as a handful of other very sophisticated British ladies. Most of the conversation was way over my head, but I did my very best when the entire table turned to me and asked what was the opinion by the American People of Obama. Or maybe it was that Natalia rescued me halfway through my semi-incoherent answer. Ended up staying until past midnight.
*The Smiths -- Still Ill
I Gaze Beyond the Rain Drenched Streets to England Where My Heart Lies
July 5, 2010
Once again, I woke up extremely early (6:00 a.m. or so) and decided upon two goals: finding an internet cafe and start updating this blog and get breakfast. After walking all over the Portobello road area, I was completely unsuccessful in the former, but did succeed in finding a place to have a chocolate croissant, a tea and a bottle of sparkling water near Holland Park. Once again, after giving up on the internet cafe, I went back home and slept late.
At around 11:00 a.m., Natalia and I headed out to the UCL area, where she is at school now, and where I was at school 10 years ago. Got off at Euston station (I probably haven't seen the interior since I was there in 2000), and walked to the British Library, where I dropped her off to study. I walked back towards UCL, and although I made a number of false starts, I was able to stop all of the few locations I could still remember: the Jeremy Bentham statue, the cafe where I often had breakfast before class, the courtyard behind the cruciform building near the Slate School of Art, the entrance to the library, the Waterstones, and some of the squares I used to walk through. I've commented on this many times, but it shocks me how vague my memories of study abroad are, much more so than college or even high school.
When I was done with this, I met up again with Natalia to get her house key (so I could leave it later for Joe), and took the train to the Rail Europe office in Picadilly Circus where I would purchase my train ticket to Zurich (I have omitted a description of waiting in line at St. Pancras station before being told I could not do so there). Of course, I should have known to go to the Picadilly Circus office, because I had done just that in 2005. Again, waited in line for about 45 minutes, reading The Magicians (my review: a much, much, much better version of Harry Potter (which I did not like) but still some cringeworthy dialogue here and there -- there is always a danger in trying to write the way people "actually" speak). The ticket I purchased was at a reasonable price (57 pounds for the euro star train from London to Brussels) but on a much more painful timetable than I had planned. 6:20 a.m. train from St. Pancras (with "check in" half an hour earlier!) and not arriving in Zurich until 9:30 p.m.!
Rushed back to the flat, took a shower, went out again, this time to meet Eve (from high school) and Jesse (her husband) near Old Street for drinks at the Hawksmoor. A bit of a fiasco attempting to leave the flat key under the garbage bin in front of the door, since there were 4 guys sitting on the curb looking straight at me as I attempted to do so -- ended up leaving the key at a local cafe. Hawksmoor was fantastic -- terrific cocktails, reminiscence over the last 5-12 years, conversation with the bartender about the month he spent on an island in Thailand, catching up on the fates of our mutual friends. We opted against the super expensive (but supposedly very good) steak there and walked to a Vietnamese place in the neighborhood that was also excellent. We ordered summer rolls, which ended up requiring a stove to cook them on the table, as well as hand assembly. And a bowl full of chopped pork belly. I walked back to the tube station very satisfied.
When I got back home, Natalia was still out, but Joe was up and invited me to watch a 3 hour documentary by a Los Angeles based film professor about the way Los Angeles has been depicted in film. That too, ended up being quite good, although it required some fortitude to stay awake so much past midnight.
Tuesday, July 6, 2010
You went off swinging London and forgot to come back
July 4, 2010
I woke up early, walked for hours, returned home and slept until 1:00 p.m. Apparently, I am more jet lagged than I had previously thought. Another half hour of inefficient shuffling around the apartment and hopped on the tube to Covent Garden to meet up with Josh, EM's friend that I met at her Norfolk, VA wedding in 2008.
The Covent Garden stop gave the option of waiting in line for the elevator to the ground or a spiral staircase. I figured the latter could not be too bad so gave it a try. It was a very, very long staircase, and after emerging in the hot London sun, it was a while before I stopped sweating. This trip has so far been a workout, much more so than even my best days at my fancy Los Angeles gym.
Josh walked me around some places he likes London, all of them very good. Unfortunately, I can't remember the name of most of the locations we visited. Those I do remember are the Tate Modern (we each had a beer at the 5th floor cafe and looked at some photographs of recently birthed babies and their mothers), Brick Lane, the South Bank, Old Street and the Barbican. We stopped at a large outdoor area full of shops and cafes and drank apple ciders (Magners) and talked about how people in London are maybe better looking than people in the U.S.
I took the tube to Oval and a small party held by some of Joe's friends. All of this went very well for a while. I talked to this guy Jay about the Alamo theatre in Austin, Texas, and ate two burnt bangers. We all sat on the grass and drank proseco and laughed. Everybody measured their waists, wrists, noses, heads and height with a computer cord and tape measure and compared. I had the room laughing by pitching the plots of already existing bad movies with an exaggerated naive enthusiasm (I realized halfway through this that I half stole this idea from the Scared Straight sketch from SNL). Everybody was happy until the host's cat sat on my chair for the moment I stepped out of it and I blew in its face to get it to leave. The cat became terrified and ran out of the room, the host screamed at me for scaring the cat and the room cleared to find it. I still haven't completely recovered from the shame.
The three of us made our journey back to Notting Hill Gate and they reassured me that it wasn't really so bad, that no one was mad at me and that it was just that the host was an animal lover and overly sensitive, but I am still not entirely convinced.
* Magnetic Fields -- "Swinging London"
I woke up early, walked for hours, returned home and slept until 1:00 p.m. Apparently, I am more jet lagged than I had previously thought. Another half hour of inefficient shuffling around the apartment and hopped on the tube to Covent Garden to meet up with Josh, EM's friend that I met at her Norfolk, VA wedding in 2008.
The Covent Garden stop gave the option of waiting in line for the elevator to the ground or a spiral staircase. I figured the latter could not be too bad so gave it a try. It was a very, very long staircase, and after emerging in the hot London sun, it was a while before I stopped sweating. This trip has so far been a workout, much more so than even my best days at my fancy Los Angeles gym.
Josh walked me around some places he likes London, all of them very good. Unfortunately, I can't remember the name of most of the locations we visited. Those I do remember are the Tate Modern (we each had a beer at the 5th floor cafe and looked at some photographs of recently birthed babies and their mothers), Brick Lane, the South Bank, Old Street and the Barbican. We stopped at a large outdoor area full of shops and cafes and drank apple ciders (Magners) and talked about how people in London are maybe better looking than people in the U.S.
I took the tube to Oval and a small party held by some of Joe's friends. All of this went very well for a while. I talked to this guy Jay about the Alamo theatre in Austin, Texas, and ate two burnt bangers. We all sat on the grass and drank proseco and laughed. Everybody measured their waists, wrists, noses, heads and height with a computer cord and tape measure and compared. I had the room laughing by pitching the plots of already existing bad movies with an exaggerated naive enthusiasm (I realized halfway through this that I half stole this idea from the Scared Straight sketch from SNL). Everybody was happy until the host's cat sat on my chair for the moment I stepped out of it and I blew in its face to get it to leave. The cat became terrified and ran out of the room, the host screamed at me for scaring the cat and the room cleared to find it. I still haven't completely recovered from the shame.
The three of us made our journey back to Notting Hill Gate and they reassured me that it wasn't really so bad, that no one was mad at me and that it was just that the host was an animal lover and overly sensitive, but I am still not entirely convinced.
* Magnetic Fields -- "Swinging London"
Saturday In the Park, You'd Think It Was the [Third] of July
July 3, 2010
After my late night, I anticipated waking up late, but instead I woke up at 9:30 a.m., walked down Notting Hill Gate, had breakfast at a Princess Diana themed cafe (egg sandwich, tomatoes and tea) and walked to nearby Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens.
I'm planning on some substantial walking while on this trip, and hopefully some hiking, so saw this day as an opportunity to start getting in shape. I did not plan on walking for 2.5 hours, but it was a perfect day, warm, sunny, all sorts of pretty British people out. Rather than listen to music for most of the time, I listened to one of my few unlistened to Planet Money Podcasts and one of my many unlistened to Podcast Shmodcasts (Peter and Octavius discussing Octavius' wedding and some of the drama taking place of which I had been unaware, and "Gay Tony Hayward" called in to discuss the necessity of plugging up the BP oil spill. I ate a hot dog and a drank a coffee. I got back to the flat at 2 p.m. and my legs felt like jelly.
I watched a bit more soccer/football with Natalia and Joe (Germany vs. Argentina) and took a short walk to Holland Park (inch for inch prettier than Hyde Park, but much smaller). Inadvertently kicked a soccer ball away from a kid who was playing in the park, probably more skillfully than had I been trying.
Took a train to hang out with K and A, drank some wine delivered by the Radisson hotel "wine fairy" and a pizza and annoyed a bar full of people attempting to watch the game. Little did I know that I would create an even more severe disruption at a party the next night.
Chicago -- "Saturday in the Park"
After my late night, I anticipated waking up late, but instead I woke up at 9:30 a.m., walked down Notting Hill Gate, had breakfast at a Princess Diana themed cafe (egg sandwich, tomatoes and tea) and walked to nearby Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens.
I'm planning on some substantial walking while on this trip, and hopefully some hiking, so saw this day as an opportunity to start getting in shape. I did not plan on walking for 2.5 hours, but it was a perfect day, warm, sunny, all sorts of pretty British people out. Rather than listen to music for most of the time, I listened to one of my few unlistened to Planet Money Podcasts and one of my many unlistened to Podcast Shmodcasts (Peter and Octavius discussing Octavius' wedding and some of the drama taking place of which I had been unaware, and "Gay Tony Hayward" called in to discuss the necessity of plugging up the BP oil spill. I ate a hot dog and a drank a coffee. I got back to the flat at 2 p.m. and my legs felt like jelly.
I watched a bit more soccer/football with Natalia and Joe (Germany vs. Argentina) and took a short walk to Holland Park (inch for inch prettier than Hyde Park, but much smaller). Inadvertently kicked a soccer ball away from a kid who was playing in the park, probably more skillfully than had I been trying.
Took a train to hang out with K and A, drank some wine delivered by the Radisson hotel "wine fairy" and a pizza and annoyed a bar full of people attempting to watch the game. Little did I know that I would create an even more severe disruption at a party the next night.
Chicago -- "Saturday in the Park"
Here is London, giddy London, is it home of the free or what?
July 2, 2010
Despite very simple instructions for getting from Heathrow to their flat off Notting Hill Gate, I STILL got lost walking to Natalia and Joe's place. On the train from Heathrow I was still asking myself whether I had even made the right decision to go on this trip -- it's a lot of time, it's expensive, and I wasn't sure whether I'd still be up for this much time on the road as I had been in 2005 (spoiler alert...I'm having a pretty great time so far, so no regrets now).
Natalia wasn't home when I got there, so Joe (whom I had never met before) watched the World Cup match between the Netherlands and Brazil(because I'm heading for the Netherlands in a month, I figured it was in my best interest to root for them to ensure that they'd be in a good mood when I got there), and then a tennis match between Nadal
and Murray (here, for obvious reasons, I rooted for the British player). Natalia arrived around 6 and informed me (as she had before) that there would be an "impromptu" dinner party that night (she later informed me that this dinner party was thrown in my honor -- I had assumed my timing had just been good). I argued with her friend Amy as to whether we would need 4 or 7 bottles of wine for the party (she ended up being right) and caught up on personal life with Natalia as she made salad.
I thought the party was a great success:
1) I learned about the RP (Received Pronunciation) although am no closer to being able to imitate it.
2) I participated in a musical singalong with Benedict (from Bristol), Grace (from New York) and Natalia, while the rest of the table either looked on in horror or looked away.
3) N, from Oregon, committed the social sin of telling me that he "went to school in Boston" when he had obviously gone to Harvard (this, when two others at the party went to Harvard, and I think at least one to Oxford -- is this false modesty really necessary?)
4) Despite having hardly slept the night before and drinking more than my share of the party's wine, stayed up until 3 a.m. Is this just jet lag?
5) Benedict's hilarious telling of the story of meeting his American girlfriend.
6) My officiating of a wedding with my Universal Life Church ministry as a sole qualification.
* Morrissey -- "Hairdresser on Fire"
Despite very simple instructions for getting from Heathrow to their flat off Notting Hill Gate, I STILL got lost walking to Natalia and Joe's place. On the train from Heathrow I was still asking myself whether I had even made the right decision to go on this trip -- it's a lot of time, it's expensive, and I wasn't sure whether I'd still be up for this much time on the road as I had been in 2005 (spoiler alert...I'm having a pretty great time so far, so no regrets now).
Natalia wasn't home when I got there, so Joe (whom I had never met before) watched the World Cup match between the Netherlands and Brazil(because I'm heading for the Netherlands in a month, I figured it was in my best interest to root for them to ensure that they'd be in a good mood when I got there), and then a tennis match between Nadal
and Murray (here, for obvious reasons, I rooted for the British player). Natalia arrived around 6 and informed me (as she had before) that there would be an "impromptu" dinner party that night (she later informed me that this dinner party was thrown in my honor -- I had assumed my timing had just been good). I argued with her friend Amy as to whether we would need 4 or 7 bottles of wine for the party (she ended up being right) and caught up on personal life with Natalia as she made salad.
I thought the party was a great success:
1) I learned about the RP (Received Pronunciation) although am no closer to being able to imitate it.
2) I participated in a musical singalong with Benedict (from Bristol), Grace (from New York) and Natalia, while the rest of the table either looked on in horror or looked away.
3) N, from Oregon, committed the social sin of telling me that he "went to school in Boston" when he had obviously gone to Harvard (this, when two others at the party went to Harvard, and I think at least one to Oxford -- is this false modesty really necessary?)
4) Despite having hardly slept the night before and drinking more than my share of the party's wine, stayed up until 3 a.m. Is this just jet lag?
5) Benedict's hilarious telling of the story of meeting his American girlfriend.
6) My officiating of a wedding with my Universal Life Church ministry as a sole qualification.
* Morrissey -- "Hairdresser on Fire"
Outward Flight
July 1, 2010
On June 11, 2010, I began a very extended and voluntary "leave of absence" from my incredibly satisfying job as a lawyer in Los Angeles. I intended to use this unusual amount of free time to, among other things, travel to a number of locations in and around Europe, including those where I have friends, family and acquaintances. At this time, I have not committed to a return flight, and only have an itinerary planned as to mid-August. As you may know, this trip begins in London, England, where in the fall of 2000 I spent 3 months as a study abroad student at University College London, and an additional 4 or so days in September 2005 on my previous extended trip after taking the California bar exam and before beginning my illustrious attorney job. On that extended trip, I kept a similar daily record of my activities on this website, and I found it to be a good way of communicating with those at home or elsewhere interested in what I was up to (and avoided duplicative (fyi, for those who regularly use this word at work, the blogspot spell check does not recognize it) emails), and more importantly gave me something to read while I was daydreaming during my first year or two in the office. The first few weeks of this leave of absence were spent moving out of my apartment and saying goodbye to my friends -- the trip began on July 1.
Even though everybody keeps telling me how excited I must be, I was not so much while Mom and Dad Lowenthal drove me to the airport Thursday afternoon for my 7:50 p.m. flight. If anything, I was (and still somewhat am) nervous about all the things that might possibly go wrong, losing important items, or catching a cold. Security was remarkably painless, the highlight being the exchange with the David Cross-semi-lookalike with vitiligo operating the metal detector at LAX -- after letting a woman ahead of me in line when we walked up to the detector at the same time, he pulled me aside and said "you sir, are proof that chivalry still exists. Sir Walter Raleigh would be proud!" If you know me well, this is funny not only because of the historical reference but because it is ironic.
I spent about an hour at Chili's before the flight where I engaged in the following activities: 1) read Zachary Mason's The Lost Books of the Odyssey, 2) talked on the phone, 3) drank a Presidente Margarita and 4) briefly discussed with my neighbors whether our Czech waitress looked like Joanne Woodward.
I hardly slept on the flight, no more than 4 hours. I took an ambien, which seemed to do nothing, spoke to no one, read a bit, and ate some bad rice and chicken, a stale roll, a cold and dry brownie, a soggy salad, a crumbly cracker and some pretty delicious cheese.
* Kukl - "Outward Flight (Psalm 323)"
On June 11, 2010, I began a very extended and voluntary "leave of absence" from my incredibly satisfying job as a lawyer in Los Angeles. I intended to use this unusual amount of free time to, among other things, travel to a number of locations in and around Europe, including those where I have friends, family and acquaintances. At this time, I have not committed to a return flight, and only have an itinerary planned as to mid-August. As you may know, this trip begins in London, England, where in the fall of 2000 I spent 3 months as a study abroad student at University College London, and an additional 4 or so days in September 2005 on my previous extended trip after taking the California bar exam and before beginning my illustrious attorney job. On that extended trip, I kept a similar daily record of my activities on this website, and I found it to be a good way of communicating with those at home or elsewhere interested in what I was up to (and avoided duplicative (fyi, for those who regularly use this word at work, the blogspot spell check does not recognize it) emails), and more importantly gave me something to read while I was daydreaming during my first year or two in the office. The first few weeks of this leave of absence were spent moving out of my apartment and saying goodbye to my friends -- the trip began on July 1.
Even though everybody keeps telling me how excited I must be, I was not so much while Mom and Dad Lowenthal drove me to the airport Thursday afternoon for my 7:50 p.m. flight. If anything, I was (and still somewhat am) nervous about all the things that might possibly go wrong, losing important items, or catching a cold. Security was remarkably painless, the highlight being the exchange with the David Cross-semi-lookalike with vitiligo operating the metal detector at LAX -- after letting a woman ahead of me in line when we walked up to the detector at the same time, he pulled me aside and said "you sir, are proof that chivalry still exists. Sir Walter Raleigh would be proud!" If you know me well, this is funny not only because of the historical reference but because it is ironic.
I spent about an hour at Chili's before the flight where I engaged in the following activities: 1) read Zachary Mason's The Lost Books of the Odyssey, 2) talked on the phone, 3) drank a Presidente Margarita and 4) briefly discussed with my neighbors whether our Czech waitress looked like Joanne Woodward.
I hardly slept on the flight, no more than 4 hours. I took an ambien, which seemed to do nothing, spoke to no one, read a bit, and ate some bad rice and chicken, a stale roll, a cold and dry brownie, a soggy salad, a crumbly cracker and some pretty delicious cheese.
* Kukl - "Outward Flight (Psalm 323)"
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